By Peter S. Goodman
Washington Post Foreign Service
Thursday, May 5, 2005; A01
WUHAN, China -- Over the past
decade, Li Suiming has steadily improved the garment factory in
which he once operated a manual loom. He brought in Japanese
sewing machines. He scrapped the old product -- ill-fitting long
underwear -- for fresh designs. He turned what had been a
loss-making state-owned factory into his own profitable
enterprise, Dolucky Knitwear.
This year came an enormous opportunity: An old system that
for three decades limited China's textile exports to the United
States and Europe finally expired. Li geared up to put his
clothes on store shelves from Fairfax to Frankfurt. In March, he
shipped his first direct order to the United States, 18,000 polo
shirts for New York-based Omega Apparel. It was part of a deluge
of Chinese-made textiles reaching the American market. Imports
of cotton shirts and pants alone increased tenfold over the
first three months of the year, according to U.S. government
data.
That surge has provoked a fierce backlash, intensifying calls
for protective tariffs on Capitol Hill, where some lawmakers now
describe China as a rogue trade regime. Industry groups argue
that China is still governed by a Communist Party that
subsidizes industry, manipulates its currency and tolerates the
exploitation of its workers. They warn that the Chinese
juggernaut is poised to wipe out some 650,000 textile and
apparel jobs in the United States. In Europe, industry pressure
groups make similar claims.